Gutter FAQ

Gutter Failures – What Causes Gutters to Fail?

The most common reasons for premature gutter failure are due to material selection, incorrect installation methods, and deferred maintenance and cleaning.

Materials Selection

Gutter Material

Many gutter installers purchase steel gutter coil as it allows them to offer their customers a lower cost product. The primary reason they are using steel material is that for many installers their primary source of business is the new construction market and their customers are home builders and remodelers. Due to the competitive nature of that industry they need to be highly competitive on their prices or they will not get the business. When it comes to gutters the builder cares more about how the gutter looks, functions, and what the price is, not how long it will last. Steel material offers a better price and It has good strength, but the flip side is that steel will rust or corrode and is almost three times heavier than aluminum. It works for the builder/remodeler, but in the long run is not in the best interest of the homeowner. In a few years down the road the homeowner will be dealing with replacement, and if the builder would have invested 10-15% more in quality materials the outcome would be completely different.

Gutter Spikes

Another way for the gutter installer to lower the price of gutters is by using steel spikes to affix the gutters to the home. It is a common practice to use this method. The problem with gutter spikes is that they work loose within 1-5 years due to expansion and contraction as the nail has very little holding power. In addition the spikes are generally placed every 4 feet which is not enough to handle the weight of the gutter and the weight of water and debris that gets in the gutter. It is not uncommon to see gutters being replaced that are only 5-8 years old due to using steel gutter materials and spikes provided by the original installer.

Incorrect Installation Methods

The most common installation issues are the use of Spikes to affix gutters, and improper ramping of gutters to evacuate water. Spikes eventually fail as they loosen over time and generally many contractors only use one spike for every 4ft of gutter. Once one gutter spike loosens then it starts a chain reaction of neighboring spikes which creates a weak link in the system. If loose spikes are not fixed then gutter damage can occur, many times it can deform the gutter beyond repair and require replacement. Improper ramping is a common mistake among gutter installers, and unless they check their work by water testing for proper flow it will create water damage and corrosion issues down the road. We have replaced steel gutters that were installed by another contractor that were less than 6 years old because they did not ramp the gutters properly. The water could not evacuate so it was left to sit in the gutter along with leaves and debris. Eventually the debris becomes acidic and starts to eat away at the steel gutter material and the end result was total gutter failure, there were holes the size of a quarter in the bottom all along where the water had been collecting. Imagine the delight of the homeowner when they found out that it was due to faulty installation.

Deferred Maintenance

Gutters can have their lifespan cut by up to 70% if they are not kept clean of debris which can cause gutter clogs. Deferred maintenance on gutter cleanings can greatly reduce the life of your gutters here are some of the common problems associated with dirty gutters:

Gutter Clogs

If gutters are clogged and full to the top they create additional weight that results in stress on the miters, end caps, and spikes. Think of it this way: 1-Gallon of Water Weighs 8.3 Ibs. so it becomes easy to calculate the weight of water as it relates to gutter weight when full 5″ Gutters – .6234 gal. per ft. = 5.21Ibs. per foot of gutter 6″ Gutters – .92 gal. per ft. = 7.6 lbs. per running ft. of gutter. If you have a 5″ gutter that is 50ft long and it is full of water the total weight of the water inside the gutter is 260.5 lbs plus the weight of the gutter itself. As you can see if the gutter is only held on by a Spike placed every 4ft it will not be enough to hold that amount of weight. The additional weight begins to take its toll on the holding power of the spike and it begins to loosen. As each spike loses its hold the next one in line takes the stress until about 3-4 spikes come loose then the gutter begins to roll forward and begins to twist. Once too many spikes come loose the weight of the gutter provides too much leverage and the gutter falls to the ground. Many times once this happens the gutter is deformed and is beyond repair. This results in having to replace the gutter altogether.

Stress & Strain on Seams

Excess weight of the water can cause gutters to leak at the end caps and corner miters due to increased pressure which can cause considerable damage if not fixed in time.

Corrosion or Rust

If gutters are not properly cleaned the gutter debris will begin to break down. The water becomes acidic and the gutter material begins to corrode and if left in this state can cause permanent damage to the material and cause premature replacement.

The Solution?

The best way to avoid these problems is to make Aluminum your material of choice, also avoid gutter spikes altogether and choose “Hidden Hangers” with screws placed every 2 feet to provide optimal gutter holding power. Also select a contractor who provides these choices and then combines them with a written installation warranty of at least 5 years. Perhaps your initial cost for the gutters will be slightly more, but in the long run it will save you hundreds of dollars. Whether you clean the gutters yourself or have them cleaned keep on top of the debris that collects in your gutters. Another great way to eliminate gutter cleaning is to purchase quality gutter covers or guards along with your gutters. We will provide you with guidance on selecting the right gutter cover for your home in future articles.

Gutter Cleaning – Why Is It So Important?

Generally one of the most overlooked home maintenance tasks on your home is your rain gutter system. The primary reason why they are overlooked depends on where you live and the weather patterns there as gutters generally not in use unless it rains. So when it is not raining, gutter cleaning is basically out of sight and out of mind. Once the rainy season is upon us it does not take long for our gutter system to let us know when we have not properly maintained them as they begin to overflow and or leak. If you think a few leaves and twigs in your gutter are harmless, think again. Clean gutters are the single most important way to avoid expensive home repairs. Gutters perform one duty, controlling the flow water from your roof and channeling it away from the foundation of your home. A gutter clog during the rainy season can cause some pretty serious problems. Here are just a few: LEAKING BASEMENTS – Clogged gutters are the number one cause of basement water problems. Roof water overflows and accumulates around the foundation. If this happens, basement leaks may be moments away. CRACKED FOUNDATIONS – Excess water against the foundation wall can weaken the footing and lead to cracks. This is particularly true in the colder months when built-up water at the foundation freezes and causes a condition known as “frost-heave” which can cause severe cracks to foundation walls. ROTTEN WOOD – Water backing up from clogged gutters will cause moisture damage to the wood fascia around the house. The rotted area will get worse quickly if the leak is not eliminated by cleaning the gutters. LEAKING ROOFS – In winter, ice-dams can form on top of clogged gutters. Then snow builds up across the top of the gutter and freezes. During the next thaw, water running off the roof is blocked by the frozen snow and backs up into the house. This can lead to major wall and ceiling damage. SLIPPERY SIDEWALKS – Overflowing gutters can deposit water on walks and driveways where it can freeze and cause a tripping hazard. Avoid this problem by keeping gutter clean and the spouts extended away from any traffic areas. AGING DRIVEWAYS – Misdirected and clogged gutter spouts often cause driveways and walks to sag and crack. In the Pacific Northwest algae and moss can set up quickly which also leads to damage. WASHED-OUT LANDSCAPING – Any newly installed plants, grass or trees can be killed by excess water. Overflowing gutters can cause severe erosion and put an early end to young plantings. WOOD DESTROYING INSECTS – Bugs love moisture. Keeping the soil dry around the foundation perimeter can force bugs to go elsewhere for a tasty snack of dampened 2 x 4. The problems listed above can create very expensive repair bills that can be avoided if regular gutter maintenance is performed. Most experts agree that you should clean your gutters in the Spring and Late Fall in many parts of the country. This is a good rule of thumb, but depending on the number of trees that surround your home and they type of debris that they shed, it could be anywhere from 3-6 cleanings per year. Timing of cleanings is critical, for example your trees have shed most of their leaves so you clean your gutters, but the trees next door are still a week or so behind yours, then out of nowhere you get a wind storm and your neighbors leaves are now find there way on to your roof and into your gutters. Frustrating for sure, but now you have to start the process over again. Our best advice is to wait for all the trees around your home to shed all of their leaves before cleaning them thus eliminating additional cleanings. If you have trees such as Birch, Pine or Fir that distribute debris all year long then cleaning at regular intervals is critical to maintaining proper maintenance. This can be tricky in the winter as wind storms dictate the amount of debris that falls. You could have your gutters cleaned on Monday and by Thursday an offshore storm can move through the area and it was if you never cleaned the gutters at all. Im sure you have experienced this before. Not only is it frustrating but it can also get quite expensive. There is an excellent solution to all of this and that is to install gutter covers to handle your debris. We are in the business of educating our customer on how to select the proper products to handle their rainwater and gutter debris problems. This site will provide you with information on how to find the right fit for your home.

Gutter Cleaning – Do It Yourself or Hire a Professional?

Of course if you have the time and energy to clean your rain gutters the cost savings over having a professional do it can be significant.

Gutter cleaning is a very simple task to perform provided your home is one level and the ground surrounding the home is flat and stable. However when your gutters are second story gutters on pitched roofs with dormers etc. it can become quite a headache as well as a safety hazard.

According to the National Safety Council, falls are the No. 1 cause of accidental death and injury at home. Falls cause over 6,500 deaths each year and over TWO MILLION hospital-related injuries every year. What is most interesting is that a large percentage of the injuries are from ladder falls that occur 4ft or less off the ground.

If you do decide to clean the gutters  yourself be sure to purchase the correct equipment and tools for the job at hand. Make certain that you use a sturdy ladder. Ladders have a rating system that designates the weight capacity of who uses it. Many inexpensive ladders can be rated for household and are rated at 200lbs. This type of ladder is less rigid that the higher rated ones which are 250lbs to 300lbs and they can be a bit on the shaky side. We recommend a minimum of 250lb rating and preferably a fiberglass model if you are working around electrical wires. If you are using extension ladders you should seriously consider using ladder standoffs such as the LadderMax stabilizer that mounts on the ladder rungs and can be used as a wall or roof standoff. This not only provides excellent stability but when cleaning gutters allows you to stabilize your ladder on the roof which prevents your ladder from leaning against your gutter which eliminates gutter damage. Multi position ladders like the Little Giant or Werner multi function ladders are very stable and provide maximum versatility. Every home should have one. By the way we are not promoting or selling ladders here, however we use these ladders and accessories in our gutter and gutter cover installation business on a daily basis and believe they are excellent products. Once you’ve climbed the ladder up to the gutter line do not reach too far to the side. This is one of the leading causes of falls. keep your hips square over the ladder to maintain your balance. You should never lean away on either side of the ladder. Make more moves with the ladder rather than risk a fall. This is the most common mistake homeowners make as they get in too big of a hurry to finish cleaning so they can get back to that Football Game on TV or some other more desirable task. This can spell disaster when you least expect it.

The other “safety” device to use is a painter’s bucket hook. This lets you bring up a 5 gallon bucket hook it to the ladder and have your hands free to hold on to the ladder and put material into the bucket. We recommend hand cleaning as scoop cleaning takes longer.

If you decide to clean the gutters from the roof, use a safety harness for protection from falling. Sometimes standing up quickly causes problems too, if you are prone to dizziness when you do stand up stay away from the edge even on a very flat roof. Many times if you must work from the roof the sit and scoot method is preferable. When working on the roof or climbing a ladder it is a good idea to wear non-slip shoes like sneakers or work boots. You should wear flexible heavy duty rubber gloves that will let you grab the gutter debris but not tire out your hands. Rubber gloves helps to keep your hands from getting soaking wet, and getting cut on metal edges etc. If you must work around power lines using a fiberglass ladder is a must as not all lines are well insulated so use extreme caution in these areas.

If you have taller shrubs or bushes around the perimeter of your home a good ladder choice is an “apple pickers or orchard ladder” these have a hinged pole on one side and a wide stance ladder on the other. They allow you to slip the pole down through the shrubs without damaging them, and they are extremely stable.

Following the above tips when cleaning your gutters will ensure you will do it safely as safety is the most important thing you can do when preparing to do this type of work. If you are not comfortable with doing this or you do not have the right equipment you should contact a professional to clean your gutters for you and leave the ladder climbing to them.

Using a Professional Cleaning Service

If you are going to pay a professional to clean your gutters be sure to check their credentials such as Liability Insurance, Workman’s Compensation Insurance etc. ask for proof that their insurances are current and in force. Did you know that you may be liable if the person or company does not carry proper coverage and someone gets hurt while cleaning your gutters? Some folks will allow anyone who knocks on the door to get on their roof and do cleanings with no thought as to what would happen if they got hurt. Protect yourself, only allow professionals that are licensed, bonded, and insured perform such tasks. Those professionals will provide a reasonable price that will reflect the true cost of hiring a professional service. On the surface it is really tempting to go with the lowest price, but should something go wrong you will probably wish you had paid the professional in the first place. Another thing to consider, professional services usually carry a guarantee of cleanliness and will provide proof via digital photos of their work. If you hire the neighborhood guy you will probably have to shimmy up the ladder to check his work.

Installing Gutter Protection or Covers

Gutter covers if carefully selected for your application and installed properly can end your gutter debris problems once and for all. They will provide the first line defense to keep the debris that causes gutter clogs and flow problems from ever happening in the first place. Depending on the type of debris surrounding your home, specific rain patterns, the amount of dust and or pollen dust that your gutters receive if you have done your research correctly and you select the product that works best for those conditions, your gutter cleaning problems can become a thing of the past.

I won’t go into proper selection in this article but will provide you a series of articles that will assist you in making the correct gutter cover selection for your application. It is our desire to educate you on the selection process by offering informative articles that make this tedious process make sense. Please feel free to chime in anytime and ask questions with the reply box provided below.

What can I do to ensure proper ladder safety?

Even though we sell Gutter Covers and it is our job to keep potential customers from climbing ladders to clean gutters, we realize that not everyone who sees our product is actually ready to purchase at the time they are introduced to it. So if you are reading this post and have considered the benefits of gutter protection for your home, but are not ready to take that next step just yet I wanted to offer some ladder safety tips and techniques that we have found helpful.
At least once a month I get a call to do an estimate in a neighborhood where someone has fallen from a ladder while cleaning their roof or gutters. Generally it is either the folks I’m going to see or it is one of their neighbors that has fallen. This is more common than we would like to admit. We all think we are invincible and that falls happen to other people, and give little thought to it actually happening to us.

Here are a few ladder basics that will help us be safer when using ladders.

Ladder Safety Checklist:

1. Cracks
2. Bends in Rungs, or Rails
3. Corrosion (metal) Rot (wood)
4. Missing rungs or steps
5. Missing rivets in rails, rungs, or steps
6. Are the Feet working properly (solid foundation)
7. Rung locks and spreader braces working properly
8. Loose fasteners
9. Steps, Rungs, and other ladder parts free of oil, grease, excessive mud that would make climbing your ladder more difficult than it already is.
10. Is the ladder properly rated for your weight? (minimum 250lb rating suggested)

Basic Ladder Operation

1. Avoid unusually windy conditions
2. Use a spotter whenever possible. If not secure the ladder to avoid ladder movement to ensure it does not fall or lean away from the structure.
3. Never carry bulky materials or heavy loads up or donw a ladder.
4. Always face the ladder
5. keep your body weight centered in between side rails
6. Maintain three points of contact with the ladder at all times.
7. Only one person on the ladder at a time.
8. Avoid sudden movements
9. Never stand on the top rung.
10. When using Extension Ladders use a Ladder Stabilizer whenever possible
11. If working on uneven surfaces with an Extension Ladder use “leg levelers”
12. Move the ladder frequently as opposed to leaning out to cover more area quicker
13. Schedule enough time to do the task at hand, accidents happen when we try to speed up the process.
14. If using small tools consider a strap or hook so you can hang it on the ladder while working. One hand on the ladder while working with the other is very important.
15. Never sit on any rung.
16. Avoid distractions such as talking to someone on the ground while in the air.
17. If the ground is soft use small pieces of plywood to keep the feet of the ladder from sinking too deep.
18. Choose a safe location to setup your ladder while avoiding doors and uneven or slippery conditions.

Many of the above tips seem like they are common sense and are steps you would probably take each time you attempt to use a ladder, but even the professionals overlook these items from time to time.

The two most common mistakes I hear when hearing about ladder accidents are:

1. Faulty or Unsafe equipment that is either disrepair or is beyond repair. It is amazing the corners some homeowners will cut to save a buck. Purchasing a correctly rated ladder that is of good quality costs less than the deductables on most health insurance policies these days yet they will use an out dated ladder that is a potential safety hazard without giving it a second thought.

2. Being in too big of a hurry to get the job done. When we hurry we cannot focus on doing the job properly as well as safely. We tend to take greater risks by working faster, like reaching too far to one side or the other as opposed to moving the ladder more frequently. When you hurry you are not able to focus on what you are doing and that is when accidents happen.

If you have to get up on a ladder, take a few moments and make it safer for you to work.

What is the installation procedure for your gutter covers?

Every company approaches gutter cover installations in different ways depending on the product design, the type of guarantee offered, and the skill of the installers.

Our approach is simple and straightforward. When we make the initial visit to inspect your gutter system and give you a bid, we inspect the existing gutters for signs of fatigue, leaks, deformation, loose spikes, corrosion etc.

If the gutters are in bad shape we will quote you on New Replacement Gutters at a reasonable cost.

Provided we have a good substrate to mount our gutter cover to, we can work with your existing gutter system which results significant cost savings. About 80% of the time we can use the existing gutters after we have fine tuned them to accept our covers. The steps we use in preparation for mounting our covers is the same on every installation we do.

1. Hand Clean Gutters – Remove all debris.

2. Clean Gutter Outlets and Downspouts as needed for proper operation.

3. Check for loose Spikes or Hangers – Re-tighten or add new if required

4. Check gutters for proper pitch to ensure correct flow to downspouts

5. Caulk & Seal all end caps and corner miters

6. Install gutter cover

7. Remove and Dispose of all job related debris.

By following these steps we start with a clean and properly functioning system that will evacuate water, sediment, roof grit during heavier downpours.

Many times the preparation work takes 3 times longer than it does to actually install the cover, but is vitally important to long term performance of the product and minimizes costly service calls for us.

How do I choose the right downspout for my home?

Not all Downspouts are created equal, there are a few things that you should know about selecting the correct downspout.

1.75”x2.75” Smooth Plaind Steel Downspouts

These downspouts are often used as they are the lowest possible cost. They are sold and installed by contractors that are primarily new construction installers, by that I mean that their primary customer is either a new home builder or a remodeler. This sort of design is popular with them because it is a lowest cost to install which is very attractive to the home builder. It works for the gutter contractor and the builder, but can be a big maintenance problem for the homeowner down the road.

Sometimes this type of contractor during housing slumps and or sharp downturns in business will turn to the residential replacement market to keep his or her workers working. Unfortunately the contractor does not change the type of materials the install, thus you are many times getting the same product you had on your home before, which is why you are reading this article now and are forced to replace your failing gutters.

Rectangular steel downspouts are simple and have a less conspicuous look, and when painted the same color as the house to hide them all the more. To keep them cheap as possible the vast majority of them are made of steel and generally rust out much sooner that the steel gutters because of the wet mildew and debris that gets trapped inside causes the cut edges which are only visible from inside to begin to corrode.

Many times after only being on the house a few years a homeowner will remove them to unclog them, and the interior literaly falls apart from the inside out. As long as a good coat of paint is applied to the outside this sort of problem can go unnoticed for years.

2”x3” Corrugated Aluminum Downspouts

This has shown to be the best for looks and function available on the market. The corrugation not only adds strength, but it also adds charm an character. With the soft rounded edges they are more cosmetically pleasing to the eye. These downspouts are roughly 120% larger than the plain square downspouts referred to above. A larger gutter outlet can be used to increase the flow of water into the downspouts and away from your home. Corrugated Aluminum does not rust and the free flowing radiused elbows and attaching parts allow debris and water to freely flow through the system.
Mounting Brackets

Here is another area that most gutter providers fall short. Many use metal straps or shoes to affix the downspout. They either use zip screws or nails to hold the straps. In our opinion the proper way to mount downspouts is to use a “pipe cleat” this is basically a stand off bracket that mounts neatly to the back of the downspout and then has tabs that protrude on either side of the downspout and have pre-drilled holes to accept mounting screws.

The bracket stands off the wall approximatley 1/2” which acts as a vibration dampener of sorts which lessens the sounds from transferring through the wall. This is noticable if you have a bedroom near a downspout. We finish it off with using a painted screw 1.25” long with a rubber washer to seal off screw head. This prevents moisture from penetrating the siding. These little extras make a huge difference to the homeowner and cost just a few pennies extra for the contractor yet many of them do not offer these extras.

When replacing seamless gutters and downspouts remember to choose Aluminum Downspouts and ask for these sort of installation techniques.

Steel Gutters vs Aluminum, which is better?

I was told that steel is a lot stronger than aluminum, so why should I buy aluminum gutters?

Galvanized Steel

It is rare to see this sort of gutter sold in our marketplace anymore. Some old school hardware stores or farm supply companies may still carry it but it will be hard to find replacement parts for it.

Painted Steel

Most of the gutter coil sold here in our market is a mild steel sheet metal. This mild steel is not a galvanized product so it is more susceptible to rusting and it scratches easily which invites rust to take over on cut edges like miters or end caps. The painted steel finishes tend to fade and chalk within 10 years so they will have a lower cosmetic life expectancy, unless of course you are willing to get up there every few years and give it a coat of car wax and put some elbow grease….Like that’s going to happen, right?

Strength of Steel

Anyone who sells steel gutters is going to tell you that it is a stronger product. That would be true to a point, but what they don’t tell you that the building code requires all professionally installed aluminum gutters to be formed with sheet metal that is almost twice as thick as its steel counterpart to compensate for this difference. The high-grade aluminum alloy materials that we use to form our gutters are stiffer than just plain aluminum by itself. In addition to being equal in strength they will not rust if the paint were to completely flake off. Try that with a painted steel product.

As long as it is properly installed and reasonable maintenance is performed such as cleaning etc. Aluminum Alloy gutters will last indefinitely. They can be cleaned and repainted down the road. Damaged gutters from impacts like tree limbs and ladders etc. represent less than 10% of all gutter replacements. Steel gutters will not resist any hard impact either. One thing to keep in mind is that if ladder standoffs are used by the homeowner or contractors when they perform work on the house, gutter damage due to impacts from ladders will not happen. They (steel gutters) cannot be repainted inside and they will fail much quicker as they will rust through the bottom of the gutter. 75% of all steel gutters eventually need to be replaced for this very reason. We call the use of steel “Planned Obsolescence”

Weight of Steel

Steel weighs significantly more than its aluminum counterpart. Wouldn’t it make sense that hanging a lighter weight material from the edge of your roof rafters make more sense from a sheer gravity standpoint?

Longevity of Steel

Painted steel gutters will rust through in 10-30 years depending on how they are affixed, sloped for runoff, and maintained. If you have trees or your neighbors have trees that shed often you will increase the life of your gutters if you clean them often. However, most folks to do not clean their gutters often enough to avoid problems. Leaves and debris begins to break down and becomes acidic. If you have pine, fir or cedar trees the needles and buds are highly acidic and must be cleaned more often on steel gutters. This might be ok if you are cleaning them yourself, but if you are paying a service to clean them, it can get really expensive. It’s either clean them regularly or replace them sooner if you own steel gutters. Another way to extend the life of steel gutters is to purchase gutter protection or covers to keep the debris out.

Expansion & Contraction

Many sales reps who sell steel will tell you how aluminum will expand and contract more than steel, and that steel is more stable. There is some truth to the expansion comment however it is a barely detectable difference that can only be measured in minute increments over a 10ft length. Any gutter installation regardless of material choice needs to be factored for expansion and contraction, particularly with long runs of gutters.

In short there are no real advantages to steel other than cost. With labor being the majority of the overall cost, doesn’t it make sense to use a material that will not require replacement? Using this analogy steel is not worth the disadvantages listed here.

We will never install steel gutters for this reason. We feel that we would be doing our customers a disservice if we did. In our market there are some contractors who have been offering steel for many years and have very successful by offering “planned obsolescence to their customers.

We provide our potential customers with this blog as a research tool to enlighten them on what to purchase if they want long term satisfaction with their gutter purchases.

We hope that the above information will help you decide which way is the better route. 

I’m Having A New Roof Put On, Should I Wait To Install New Gutters?

Absolutely!

Roofers can be brutal to any gutter system, especially if they are performing a complete tear off. Most of the roofing companies I have seen in action do no use ladder standoffs when climbing onto the roof. Many times, I have seen plenty of heavy items being carted up the ladder and onto the roof which causes extreme pressure to the gutters. Many gutters have spikes placed every 4 ft which does not give enough support or resistance to a ladder leaned against it. Imagine a 200lb roofer and a 100lb load on his shoulder, do you think that might deform gutters?

We see tons of dents that were made in gutters by someone dropping a crow bar, shingle shovel, claw hammer, or a nailing gun. If the homeowner is not home when it happens, many times it goes unnoticed.

In fact, if you plan on replacing your gutters right after the roof is installed, we will coordinate our install date close to the roof completion to button the job up. It is a really good idea to have your gutters removed at the same time they do the tear off so the gutters and downspouts are hauled off at that time, in fact we will discount the gutter 25 cents a foot if you do.

Another good reason to have them torn off is to expose any dry rot on fascia boards or roof rafters. This is an excellent time to deal with those issues well before the gutters get installed. Also, if you are changing roof colors, we can determine the best color match once the roof is installed.

What Color Selection Do You Have For Gutters?

There are two main gutter material suppliers in our area. Both carry pretty much the same color choices. The reason we use Custom-built Metals Inc. for our gutter coil and downspouts is that they, in our opinion, offer a better materials and painted surface warranty. There is no difference in cost between materials and it is a better deal for our customers. The Teflon seal that they put on the gutter material surface assists you in keeping your gutter clean by making it easier to clean the treated paint surface. The primary thing it does is seal the pores in the paint and by doing so dirt cannot adhere to the painted surface as well.

Most of the color choices are earth tones. If you can find a color that would work well with your trim color, it would be best to have us order your gutter material in that color. Downspouts generally follow the main color of the house so if you can find a color that is close run with that as well. Click here to view our custom color selection chart.

Some installers will hard sell you on white, or musket (dark brown) as this is the color, they spool their machines up with. They even up charge you if you choose another color as it is more expensive. Frankly this is just a way of getting you to go with white so they can draw from stockpiles of inventory purchased at better prices which means better profit for them. Hey I’m all about making good profit, don’t get me wrong, but not at the expense of making a customer choose a color based on my profit margin versus what is right for them.

We sell a lot of white gutters and downspouts and we keep our machine spooled up with at least 500’ of white material at all times. However, we have a second cradle spool on our machine reserved for custom color runs.

We feel it is good customer service to offer the right color suited for your home. It does cost us more to provide the other colors as the vendor charges us a bit more for them, and it is difficult to obtain the best price on small orders of colored materials. The other thing is we do have to pick up the materials from the vendor as opposed to working from our stock, but we would rather have the job look right, and have a happy customer. We want you to feel good about our work when the job is done. A happy customer will refer us to friends and neighbors which saves us tons on advertising dollars.

We do not charge any more for our custom colors than we do for white. Some installers charge $1 or more per foot extra for this service.

Drip edge is a roof flashing that is installed at the leading edge of your shingle near the gutter It generally is a 1”x 3” or 1”x 2” piece of metal flashing slipped under the roofing material and over the top of the paper felting underneath the roofing shingles that hangs down into the gutter approximately 1” The primary objective of this drip edge is to keep the rain water from soaking up under the roofing shingles and causing dry rot of the plywood under the felt paper. It also diverts water into the gutter instead of going behind the gutter, which could also dry rot of the wood behind the gutter. This can cause the gutter to come loose and even make it pull away from the fascia board or rafter tails. The one thing we see all too often is a house that has been re-roofed in the last few years but the roofer did not bother to provide drip edge flashing to eliminate the above problems from happening. We cannot understand how they get away with this as it is one of the most important things you can do when replacing the roof. Even if you had a huge job flashing would not amount to more than a couple of hundred dollars. Homeowners who are highly price conscious force these roofers to cut corners in their bidding process and eliminate this important part of their install to reduce the overall bid amount. The damage that can occur if drip edge is not installed can be very costly, yet they still do it. Some roofers will try to compensate for no flashing by hanging the edge of the roofing farther into the gutter so that the water will fall straight down. This works ok for a year or so, then the roofing begins to curl downward due to gravity. In the meantime, trying to clean your gutters becomes very difficult as hanging the roofing farther into the gutters makes it difficult to get your hand in the gutter without cutting up your fingers and knuckles in the process while trying to get all the debris out. We always tell our customers that are replacing self-flashed gutters, that they will need to have new drip edge installed if they do not have existing flashing. Also, any roof that does not currently have drip edge will need to have it installed as well. In fact, in some applications it is so important that we have actually walked away from bids where they would not agree to have it installed as it presented a potential liability issue down the road for us. We wish that building codes would require a building permit for re-roofs, that way it would be inspected and the contractor would be required to include this in the installation if they tried to cut corners. Unfortunately, there is so much volume in that industry that having permits for this purpose is not possible. So, they look the other way. It is in your best interest if you take this simple step to protect your home. It is very inexpensive and the alternative is expensive repairs down the road.